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Hey MtSports! That last topic got shut down so I thought I would thank you here. I guess I will have to save up a little more $$! :thumb: I appreciate the advice. I guess I will have to stick with my little pocket warmer for a short time more! LOL :(

Don't let complaints get you down either. I had a parent complaining to me about the meals I was serving-granted no one else would do the freshman and JV meals, I saw a need and filled it. It just so happened a nice gentleman who use to coach was within hearing distance and came up to me and said "You will never make 100% of the people happy, just do the best you can!" And he was and is right! I just wish I had your skills! See you at the Games! :) Thanks again!

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Your going to need a longer lens like a 200mm or 300mm if you're going to shoot on the sidelines. Oh yeah... That on camera flash wont get the job done either. Make sure you add an external flash to your list.

 

Nikon D70/D80 or Canon rebel systems will be good to start with and upgrade as your skills progress.

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Get a 300mm fixed focal length lense like everyone says. The trick here is to get one with a high enough (low number actually) F stop to get enough light in for good pictures. I use a 70-300mm lense that automatically gos to F5.6 at 300mm. I can't get enough light in to get good shots at these high school fields...except maybe Cornersville. I finally gave up and started saving my pennies for a better lense. I use a Cannon Rebel XT and it works great. This combination works well for everything except night football.

 

 

I'm dying for a lense Vern.

Edited by Vultor
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I use a Canon Digital Rebel XTI with a f2.8, 100 to 200mm zoom lens and a Canon Speedlite external flash (usually have the "film speed" setting at 800). To "zoom" in further, crop it in the computer. At 8 to 10 mega pixals you can crop quite a bit without to much quality reduction. For me, this works great. Note you will need a lens capable of low f stop so you can increase the shutter speed to stop the action. I usually have it set to "Tv" where I set the shutter speed (and film speed) and the camera sets everything else. This has worked best for me. :thumb:

Edited by Duckmax
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The new Canon Rebel is the best deal on the market.

Agree with everyone about the lens. The bigger the

lens, the better.

 

I suggest you go with Canon. The new Rebel is about

$900, and the lens will be around $1,500.

 

Do not purchase anything other than what is made in

the USA. If you get the new stuff, you have the benefit

of warranties.

 

You will also need a monopod for night games. And

you need photoshop. You can redeem a lot of pictures

in photoshop.

 

B&H is the best place to purchase the camera and lens.

 

B&H Kit

Canon Price : $ 865.95

 

Shipping Cost

 

EOS Digital Rebel XTi (a.k.a. 400D) 10.1 Megapixel, SLR, Digital Camera (Black) with Lexar 2GB Platinum II (80x) CompactFlash Card

 

Canon USA Price : $ 1,699.95

 

Mail-In Rebate: $ 50.00

Price After Rebate: $ 1,649.95

Shipping Cost

 

Zoom Telephoto EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens

 

Mfr # 7042A002 • B&H # CA7020028LIS

 

 

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I have always used a Sony video camera (DCR-TRV900) which allows you to take still frames from the video. I like it because I don't have to be a very good photographer. However, my camera saves the still images to 3 1/2 inch floppies and I am having problems doing that now. Supposedly the new cameras like mine are not nearly as good as the one I have.

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Using the camera I describe above, I never have used a flash and do not like the idea of using a flash in player's faces. With the Canon Rebel, is a flash required indoors?

I'm an old fart and still shoot with film. Fuji 1600 speed. I use an old Minolta XGM with a 70-210/f2.8 at 1/250. It's quick enough to cut down motion blurs but wide enough to use the light in most stadiums, except Brentwood Academy. Some of the pics are dark but it adds to the effect. I go to 1/125 for huddle shots, etc.I never use a flash for the reason you mention. Plus, a flash tended to get just the action within the flash range. (Imagine that.) Some of the coolest shots have a lot of activity away from the main focus. You will have what some folks think is an an undesired effect on the shots that I believe is called vignetting. The outside edges are darkened due to the aperture (spelling?) being wide open. To me, it seems to give the shots a 3D look.

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